Pre-race - The Nerves
Day 1 - Excellent Climbs
Day 2 - Sweet Singletrack
Day 3 - The Snake
Reflection - Continuous Improvement
Trackleaders Link
Backside of a cue sheet I made. So true. Photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
Day 1 - Excellent Climbs
Day 2 - Sweet Singletrack
Day 3 - The Snake
Reflection - Continuous Improvement
Trackleaders Link
I sit here writing with swollen legs, numb fingers and a chapped ass. I am happy to be home with family but I long to be back on the bike in the solitude of wilderness.
For those not familiar, the Trans North Georgia(TNGA) is a 350 mile off-road bike race across the northern mountains of
Georgia. Starting at the South Carolina border and ending in Alabama.
There is mixed asphalt, gravel, doubletrack and singletrack but make no
mistake.....there is an enormous amount of climbing involved, totaling 56,000 feet.
That is over 10 miles of vertical elevation; the equivalent of
climbing Everest early twice. The course record was set by Eddie O'dea in
2013 with a time of 1:14:57. My goal was a sub-3 day finish.
In the weeks leading up to the race, I was going
nuts. My training plan was starting to decrease in volume to give my body a
chance to completely recover before the TNGA. A month before, I was
putting in 20-24 hour weeks of intense riding to get prepared, and then the last
couple of weeks cut back to around 10 hours. To fill the time, I spent
countless hours going through my packing list. Laying things out, adding
things, removing things. What did I really need? What is a nice
to have? For my first bikepacking race, I was taking the "I'd
rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it" approach.
My pack list for TNGA was essentially the same
as the practice run I made earlier in the month. You can read about that
here: http://southerngears.blogspot.com/2015/07/prequel-to-first-solo-bikepacking-trip.html
The Wednesday night before the race I headed
up to Birmingham and stayed with friends Sean and Danielle. We ate some smoking indian food, then stayed up for a while making some last minute changes. The next morning
we packed up and headed to Crestwood Coffee to get some breakfast with
Danielle and our friend Tiffany on the way out of town. The 3.5 hour
drive to Mulberry Gap flew by as Sean and I discussed everything
we had already talked about....not knowing exactly what we have gotten
ourselves into.
Despite the fact that I had been to Mulberry Gap only once before, pulling into the driveway felt like I was returning to a
second home. Cool people, great food and sweet trails right out the back
door. We checked in with Kate and chatted for a while before heading down
to the barn to see if anyone else had rolled in. The first person we ran
into was a talkative and entertaining fella named Monte Marshall. He had done the TNGA many times before and had many war stories to tell. One thing I vividly remember is him talking about how these new guys
would pack out their bikes with 50 pounds of gear and then regret it on the
first climb. I am that guy.
All smiles from this guy |
The next morning, we hopped out of bed and headed
up to the barn for breakfast. Bacon, eggs and the best waffles you have
ever had. So good. Fueled up, we started sorting our gear in
preparation to shuttle towards the South Carolina border that afternoon.
More and more racers started to trickle in. I wanted to get a quick
ride in and asked around to see if there were any takers. A really nice
dude from Savannah named Bill Bailey said he would be up for it so we set out
on an easy 8 mile gravel loop. We chatted about the TNGA and other
bikepacking routes he had been on. He told me about the Huracan 300 and
CFITT in Florida.....both of which I'll check out for 2016. Back at
Mulberry, I got cleaned up and packed up for the east bound trek.
Get the tots photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
Getting to the yurts, Sean and I made a beeline
to one of the smaller units that only had three bunk beds. Less people,
less noise, more sleep. Some of the other yurts had up to eight
bunkbeds......no way, no how. We hauled our gear in and set out the kits
that we would be wearing for the duration of the race. I had once thought I would take a second set of bibs to keep my ass
happy, but I found during my test run a few weeks ago that this was completely
unnecessary for a 3 day journey. We were joined in our bunk house by the
infamous Monte as well as someone with a really interesting story.
Yurts were really nice photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
Awesome food, early chatter. photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
Sean and I....riding buddies 4 life photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
The drive to the start was a pretty quick 45 minutes and conversation was light. Brett, being the awesome tour guide he is, pointed out significant mountain passes and waterways on the way. We pulled into the lot and hopped out of the car sizing up other racers who had not been staying with us at the yurts. It is pretty fascinating to see the wide variety of bike setups. From the ultra light side of the spectrum carrying only a few bottles and maybe a small saddlebag to the fully loaded bagged out variety. I would say I fell into the latter. Some wore backpacks but most did not. I do not tolerate weight on my back very well, so I definitely did not go the backpack route. I only carried a large bottle with Tailwind in my middle jersey pocket and a smaller shorty bottle in my right jersey pocket to carry reserve water. My phone was typically in my left jersey pocket unless it was raining or when I was charging it.
Just before the start at the South Carolina border photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
All year long I had been training with a power
meter. This became my best friend in knowing what kind of an effort I was
capable of sustaining for different periods of time. With much practice, I
had determined that my all-day pace was between 200 and 220 watts.
Rolling up some of the early climbs while we were all warming up, I really
focused on getting a feeling for what this effort felt like out here. I'm
not one who is glued to the screen constantly, but I will occasionally glance to
see where I am. Conversations up the early climbs were nice. Up
front, I chatted with Chad Hungerford about his experiences with this route and
he actually remembered reading a blog post of mine from a couple weeks back. Super humble guy.
The feet were never dry.... photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
One the few easy descents |
Somewhere down the road we turned off the fairly
busy Unicoi Turnpike and onto a really nice gravel grade. I knew that just before
Helen there was an infamous climb named Tray Mountain. I asked Matt if
that was indeed the section we were on and he confirmed. After about 800
feet of climbing the road headed down for a little relief. No way that
could have been all there was to this legend of a climb. I caught up to
Matt and asked him if that was it. He said that sadly, it was not. He explained that Tray wasn't necessarily a hard climb but a
relentless one. Pedaling on, I found this road was cut like many other big
climbs I have encountered. Up, up, up.....curve or switchback, up, up,
up.....repeat. It was a pretty pleasant climb with a consistent
grade that allowed to you stick to one gear and just grind away.
Eventually the gravel gave way to a open red dirt parking lot of sorts. There were quite a few trails that shot off in different directions.
Luckily Matt was right there and pointed me in the right direction.
The first trail down the backside of Tray was my
first real taste of the difficulty of TNGA. Going down is just as hard as going up. The first section down the back of this mountain was a very rocky
jeep road. My heavy bike wanted to go fast, but you really had to maintain
your speed so you had the time to pick a decent line through the chunder.
After a few miles, this gave way to another parking area that looked very
similar to the previous one. Matt said this is where the notorious
Hickory Nut Trail began. Once again, there were a few roads and trails
that left from this parking lot so it was nice to have an experienced guide
with me. Hickory Nut was fairly well covered with canopy and the sun was
starting to go down, which made picking a good line through the singletrack a
little difficult. To add to this, there were big rocks strewn everywhere
on the trail. Like head sized rocks. Just sitting there in the
trailbed. Misplaced. Evidently these rocks got here from bears and
wild hogs flipping them over looking for grubs and whatever else bears and hogs
eat from under rocks. By this time, I am starting to feel some of the
fatigue of the day wear on me, and it takes all of my concentration to either
not run off the side of the trail and spill down the mountain, or smack into one
of these nice sized rocks and eat shit. Before I knew it, I was back on
asphalt and descending towards the town of Helen. Woody's Bike Shop
should be just ahead.....and then I whizzed by it on the right. I turned
around and then headed up the gravel driveway to this oasis, where I was greeted
with cheering and cowbells. Just short of 100 miles into this epic
journey.
This guy loaded up on waaayyyy too much sugar at Woody's photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
Back on the road, I knew the infamous climb over
Hog Pen Gap lay ahead of me. As the sun
was setting I started heading up this paved climb, but I
soon found that I just couldn’t get my legs under me. I started getting passed by other
riders, and I had to stop a few times to
take a break. Then it dawned on me that
I made a total rookie mistake back at Woody’s by gorging myself on entirely too
much food. All of the blood in my body
had evacuated my legs and instead was focused on digesting the immense amount of food I
had just loaded in my stomach. I
slowly continued up the climb, taking breaks as I needed and eventually crested
the gap. Just as I hit the top, the sky
was starting to light up with a crazy amount of lightning and crashes of
thunder were stealing the quiet silence of the night. This continued during the screaming fast
descent down the backside of the gap, and I was just hoping that I could make it
to Vogel State Park at the bottom before the inevitable rain set in.
Surprisingly, there was no rain yet with all of
the noise and light in the sky. I
started to see signs for the park, and began thinking whether I should just push
on past Vogel to the next mountain pass.
I decided to swing into Vogel to finish letting my food digest and see
what this storm did. Pulling into the
registration building, I saw a couple of other racers sitting on benches next to
a glowing red coke machine. Hank
Campbell, a teammate of his and a young kid from the Sewanee Cycling Club named
James Dunaway were all talking about how far they were going to push on when I
rolled up. I sat on a soft patch of
grass and pulled out my phone surprised to see I had a few bars of LTE. Opening up a weather app I couldn’t believe
that it only said that there was slight drizzle in the forecast for the next
hour. Maybe this was just a big electrical
storm? I was really on the fence as to
whether I was going to push on over Wolf Pen Gap or sit around and see what
this storm was going to do. The trio I
was chatting with decided to push on and I resorted to finding a place to rest
for a few hours.
On the way into the park, I remember seeing a pavilion with some picnic tables. This looked like a perfect place to stay off
the ground and out of any rain that may head our way. I peeled off my kit and
put on a pair of running shorts, some thick wool socks
and my rain jacket. I threw my buff on
my head and laid down on the picnic table. Before crashing out I drank a couple of liters of water as well as a
serving of CarboRocket Rehab. I set my
alarm for 3:30am and started to snooze off. Somewhere in the middle of the night the wind picked up and the rain
started. I pulled my bivy out of my seat
bag as I was starting to get a little cold and zipped up. The sound of the rain actually made it a
little easier to get some rest. Every
once in a while, I would wake to the sound of thunder or a set of squealing
brakes of another racer pulling into the park.
Breakfast of champions |
Around 3:30am I woke up to the sound of the alarm on my phone. The rain had stopped and it was nice and cool. I packed up most of my gear and headed over to the laundry facility at the park to dry my wet kit before getting on the road for the day. After the torrential downpour just hours before, I was actually surprised there wasn’t a racer sleeping in the laundry room. I put my kit in a dryer and ate a breakfast of canned sardines and a Belgian waffle, washing it down with two packets of Via instant coffee poured in a bottle of cold water. I was starting to feel pretty human. I grabbed my kit from the dryer and slipped the warm, dry but stinky kit on for another day of pedaling. As I was getting packed up, a few other racers followed the light into the laundry room and happily threw their wet clothes into the dryers as well. I spent some time chatting with Chris Joice, Peri Garite and a few others. Knowing that Chris had done the route before, I asked him what he thought the Aska trails would be like after getting a bunch of rain. The answer wasn't awesome.
After getting back on course you almost immediately turn onto Wolfpen Gap Road. Getting into the climb, I was pleasantly surprised at how well my legs were feeling and that it was a pretty consistent grade. After about three miles there was a slight relief which I wasn't expecting. After a couple hundred more feet, I realized I had missed a turn off to the right so I doubled back. The turn was a little tough to see in the dark, but I found Duncan Ridge Rd and continued climbing on gravel for about a mile before the grade turned down into miles of very fun rollers. A couple of turns were made on the way down passing through some rural residential area and I vividly remember coming to a pretty deep creek crossing, which marked the last time my feet would be dry that day. A few miles later, I popped out of the woods and hit highway 60 where there was a pretty well known convenience store which, unfortunately, wasn't open yet. Bummer. Not too much further down were some really nice and tacky gravel/dirt roads - I believe it was the Cooper Creek area - where I saw at least one person camped out. I found out later that it was to John Hightower.
Pretty cool bridge crossing |
Just as I put tires on dirt it started sprinkling. No big deal... I've ridden trails in the rain before. The first few miles on the Aska trails were really nice.....until I turned onto Stanley Gap trail. I had heard that this was a tough climb but that was a huge understatement. In the rain, this trail has significant portions that are completely unrideable. It would level off to where I could remount, I would ride for a couple hundred feet and then round a corner where I was met with extremely steep rock and root stairs. Get off, hike it up, repeat. This seemed to go on forever. Somewhere along the way, John Hightower and another rider caught up with me. We chatted for a while before they went ahead as I struggled up some of the technical bits. I was completely frustrated, but when I get into these types of situations, I rationalize it by telling myself that it will eventually be over. A section or a trail cannot go on forever. At some point I crested the gap, descended down about a mile or so of trail, and then spit out onto gravel for the rest of the descent. Looking back at the effort, it is easily some of the hardest hike a bike I have ever done. A measly 8 miles of trail took my 2.5 hours to complete.....ouch.
After a few more miles, I ended up in a small town called Cherry Log. I remember noting that in this town there would be a convenience store or gas station. Or wasn't Jack's here? I still had some snacky bike food, but I was pretty cooked and hungry for some real food. I tried finding something in the vicinity on my phone but cell service was sketchy. Just when I was getting ready to head back on the route, a friendly face named JP Evans came pedaling down the road. I asked him where Jack's country store was, and he said it was still a good two hours down the road. For a split second I freaked out and then just grabbed reality and JPs wheel and headed down the road. We had a fantastic conversation talking about previous times he had done this route and his experience doing the Tour Divide a few years ago. The riding was pretty easy, mostly paved and the miles just ticked by. We hit highway 2 and JP proclaimed that the country store should be right up the road.
Getting to this store was an enormous mental relief. Opening the door we were greeted by the owners and I was visually overwhelmed. Rows and rows of shelving with packaged foods and coolers full of cold drinks. A really nice lady named Donna told JP and I about all of the sandwiches and hot food they had available, and we started placing our orders and grabbing things off of the shelves. My focus was on getting snacks to refill my feedbag. I grabbed some trail mix, small candy bars and a few granola bars. I ordered a BBQ sandwich and a chicken salad sandwich. Grabbed two bags of chips and an ice cold Coca Cola. As we were settling up, Donna was really sweet, taking our pictures and telling us where we were currently placed according to Trackleaders.
This sign seemed so much bigger.....really. I <3 Cohuttas. |
Cresting the gap led into a really fast gravel descent down to the South Fork trail. This lead sinto the northern terminus of the Pinhoti trail system. Visiting this area about a month ago gave me some really good familiarity with the trails in the Cohuttas, and I was having a great time ripping down the mountain. A couple of rollers led up to the Mountain Town overlook and then DOWN Potato Patch dropping into the Bear Creek Trail parking lot. Lots of technical descending on the spur and then great riding on the main trail. The best thing about these trails is how fast they drain after a good soaking. Nice hard trailbed, lots of elevation and great design make these trails so much fun to ride. Before I knew it I was on P2, which is easily my favorite trail in the system, and I was feeling great. When I popped out onto gravel I knew I was just a few miles away from Mulberry Gap.
Feeling good.....should have hit P3 photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
Day 3 - The Snake
After eating and changing clothes, Wendi and I got a few hours of sleep in the cabin. I set my alarm for 2am but somehow missed it and woke up at 3:15. Eek! Got up, got dressed, ate a light breakfast, kissed Wendi goodbye and hit the road. I could have used a LOT more sleep and really did not feel like getting on the bike, but once I got my legs spinning my mood quickly changed. After following the gravel road back to the trails I got onto Pinhoti section #3 (P3), which was pretty climby with some really tight switchbacks. My mindset getting into this section was to take it easy to get good and warmed up, and that worked out really well. I cleared lots of spiderwebs and was surprised by some bats swooping into the beam of light from my helmet light to snatch attracted bugs. Close to the end of P3 I saw a light coming towards me. This was really weird.....5am and someone coming up this section of trail wasn't quite right.
When I caught up to the light I was surprised to see it was JP Evans. I sat and talked to him for a couple of minutes, and it turned out he had gotten turned around somewhere at the bottom of P5 and accidentally backtracked up the mountain. He had decided to head back to Mulberry Gap and pack it in, completely smoked and mentally exhausted. I tried to get him to grab my wheel and come back down the mountain, but it was a no-go, which really bummed me out. Wrapping up P3 and popping out onto highway 2, I had a bit of trouble finding the trail entrance for P4 in the dark. I had to pass by it a few times before catching a reflection off of a turkey foot trail marker. I was getting good and warmed up, and feeling amazed at how well my legs were feeling with 200+ hard miles in them. P4 went quick, rolled down Tatum Lead and into P5 which is a great section of trail. Not at all technical, mostly flowy and quick. One thing I remember about riding this section of trail was that it felt very "bear-y" for some reason. Pretty low lying trailbed, very dark from canopy cover, creek crossings...
just felt like a great place for bears to hang out. I was disappointed that I didn't actually see any bears.
Peeples Lake road led into a really awesome, easy to miss newer section of trail called Dennis Mill (nothing actually says this though). From previous riding I remembered a white trail marker on a tree to the left, and there was a broken Stihl bar cover at the base of the tree. It should also be noted that a ton of trees on this trail have orange spray paint on them, which I can only assume was used to mark out the trail when it was being built. Mostly downhill, machine cut with tons of flow and speed are the trademarks of this section of trail. The sun was starting to come up which made riding this trail even more fun. After about 3.5 hours after leaving Mulberry Gap, the trail dumped out onto a two lane road and I knew the next section was a flat road ride to get over to Dalton.
Soup.....easy on the stomach before a big climb |
I walked back over to the shop, refilled bottles, packed up and headed out the door thanking Derek for the service. Just a little more road getting out of Dalton and then right up a very steep climb for a couple of miles on Dug Gap to get to the top of the ridgeline. I found the start of the trail, which is a continuation of the Pinhoti trail but called "The Snake", and found a shady spot to sit down and eat half of the sandwich I had picked up down the hill. Evidently this trail claims its namesake from both the fact that rattlesnakes love to coil up on the rocks to sun, and for the way the trail wraps and winds back and forth across the ridgelines. I heard that the Snake was basically 30ish miles of singletrack covered in rocks that you had to pick your way through, similar to the rocky sections of Jekyll & Hyde at Oak Mountain in Birmingham, Alabama. Over the past few years I feel like I have gotten much better at technical riding, so I just locked myself into taking it easy through the tough parts, keeping my head up and picking good lines.
Even a sign welcoming us! |
Cuesheet says "big stone column on the left" Took me a while to find this guy.... |
If I remember correctly, the last ridgeline after crossing highway 27 was mostly doubletrack with fast and fun rollers. This made the miles tick by pretty quickly. The last few miles before dropping off the ridge turned back into twisty singletrack, where I once again started seeing signs of fatbike tires. Scott had to be really close. I was almost immediately on highway 100 and then a turn was indicated which lead to an old rail trail which was assumed by the Pinhoti system. More turkey track trail markers made it fairly easy to spot. Being a trail converted from an old railbed, it was dead flat and mostly straight. Within just a few minutes of being on this section, I saw a faint blinking red light about a half mile or so ahead. This could only be one person! I clicked down a few gears and got on the pedals. It took a few miles to close the gap, but in no time I had caught up to Scott. We chatted for a few minutes and I asked if he was still going to turn it around at the state line and head back to South Carolina and he confirmed that was his plan.
Done and done |
I checked over my shoulder for any other oncoming traffic and turned it around to head back to the gas station and call it a night. Andrew was there waiting and we chatted for a while and in just a few minutes Scott came rolling down the road. We reminisced about the past couple of days and talked about his return trip home. The TNGA route had never been yo-yo'd before and Scott was hoping to be the first riding a singlespeed fatbike. What a stud! I was starving, so Andrew and I headed into Rome, GA, to grab a bite to eat before the next rider came across the state line. Once we rolled back into the gas station it wasn't but a few minutes before Peri Garite came rolling through. We all chatted for bit and then piled into the truck and wished Scott a safe ride back east.
It took a few hours to shuttle back to Mulberry Gap, but it went by pretty quick between chatting with Andrew and catching some sleep. Once back we unloaded, I ate a half a pizza and a beer and made my way down to the cabin to take a quick shower and pass out. By the time I got to bed I think it was close to 5am and falling asleep was easy. I was surprised when I woke up at 8:30am full of energy and ready to go. Soreness in my legs was starting to set in, but I got everything packed up in the truck and drove up the hill to grab some breakfast on the way out of town. The barn was pretty quiet, but as usual the food was awesome and I was starving. Eggs, bacon and two blueberry waffles. Finishing breakfast, I had a really good chat with Sam Harney about his race, coming in second just behind Chad Hungerford, and all of the other bikepacking routes he has raced. Oregon Outback, Stagecoach and more. The coolest thing about this discipline of cycling is how laid back and humble most people are. I said my goodbyes to Mulberry Gap crew and headed home for the 6 hour journey.
Reflection - Continuous Improvement
Squeezy therapy |
- Lighten the bike. I'll be working on getting a lighter setup this fall and ditching unnecessary items. My hope is to get my loaded rig, including food and water, well under 40 lbs.
- Continue with strength work. For a vast majority of the race I could feel where the core and upper body work my coach put into my plan came into play. I felt much more stable climbing and I never really felt any upper body fatigue while making technical descents (and there were a lot of them) until the last day.
- Increase FTP. First and second day I had no problem holding 220-240 watts while under power. The third day was tough to keep the mojo on the pedals and many times I just felt like I was out of fitness. I'll be working hard with Lynda this winter to get ready for some solid early season races in 2016.
Would I recommend this route? Yup. It is hard......really hard. The climbs are tough, and you get very few breaks on the descents as they are pretty technical. There is a good amount of hike-a-bike through some sections like Stanley Gap, and ridge climbing on the Snake. The gravel sections are really well groomed and the singletrack is so, so sweet. Cannot wait to crush this route in 2016.