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Breakfast of champions |
Around 3:30am I woke up to the sound of the
alarm on my phone. The rain had stopped
and it was nice and cool. I packed up
most of my gear and headed over to the laundry facility at the park to dry my
wet kit before getting on the road for the day. After the torrential downpour just hours before, I was actually surprised
there wasn’t a racer sleeping in the laundry room. I put my kit in a dryer and ate a breakfast of canned sardines and a Belgian waffle, washing it down with two packets of Via
instant coffee poured in a bottle of cold water. I was starting to feel pretty human. I grabbed my kit from the dryer and slipped
the warm, dry but stinky kit on for another day of pedaling. As I was getting packed up, a few
other racers followed the light into the laundry room and happily threw their
wet clothes into the dryers as well. I
spent some time chatting with Chris Joice, Peri Garite and a few others. Knowing that Chris had done the route before, I asked him what he thought the Aska trails would be like after getting a bunch of rain. The answer wasn't awesome.
After getting back on course you almost immediately turn onto Wolfpen Gap Road. Getting into the climb, I was pleasantly surprised at how well my legs were feeling and that it was a pretty consistent grade. After about three miles there was a slight relief which I wasn't expecting. After a couple hundred more feet, I realized
I had missed a turn off to the right so I doubled back. The turn was a little tough to see in the dark, but I found Duncan Ridge Rd and continued climbing on gravel for about a mile before the grade turned down into miles of very fun rollers. A couple of turns were made on the way down passing through some rural residential area and I vividly remember coming to a pretty deep creek crossing, which marked the last time my feet would be dry that day. A few miles later, I popped out of the woods and hit highway 60 where there was a pretty well known convenience store which, unfortunately, wasn't open yet. Bummer. Not too much further down were some really nice and tacky gravel/dirt roads - I believe it was the Cooper Creek area - where I saw at least one person camped out. I found out later that it was to John Hightower.
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Pretty cool bridge crossing
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Just up the road I came upon a really cool bridge which crossed the Tocca River. Just on the other side of that, I saw a few buildings and the Iron Bridge Cafe, which I heard had great food. It was closed for business. Bummer.....getting hungry. The good news was that the water spigot on the side of the building still worked, so I topped off and back on the road. I was now on Aska Road, so this could only mean I was getting close to the trails. After dealing with a little bit of fast traffic and a stout climb, I was in the trailhead parking lot. I pulled out my cue sheets, looked at the map at the kiosk, and mapped out my course through the network of trails. On this section I was going to have to pay pretty close attention to cue sheets and mileage. I gave Wendi a quick call to let her know I was in good spirits and hit the trails.
Just as I put tires on dirt it started sprinkling. No big deal... I've ridden trails in the rain before. The first few miles on the Aska trails were really nice.....until I turned onto Stanley Gap trail. I had heard that this was a tough climb but that was a huge understatement. In the rain, this trail has significant portions that are completely unrideable. It would level off to where I could remount, I would ride for a couple hundred feet and then round a corner where I was met with extremely steep rock and root stairs. Get off, hike it up, repeat. This seemed to go on forever. Somewhere along the way, John Hightower and another rider caught up with me. We chatted for a while before they went ahead as I struggled up some of the technical bits. I was completely frustrated, but when I get into these types of situations, I rationalize it by telling myself that it will eventually be over. A section or a trail cannot go on forever. At some point I crested the gap, descended down about a mile or so of trail, and then spit out onto gravel for the rest of the descent. Looking back at the effort, it is easily some of the hardest hike a bike I have ever done. A measly 8 miles of trail took my 2.5 hours to complete.....ouch.
After a few more miles, I ended up in a small town called Cherry Log. I remember noting that in this town there would be a convenience store or gas station. Or wasn't Jack's here? I still had some snacky bike food, but I was pretty cooked and hungry for some real food. I tried finding something in the vicinity on my phone but cell service was sketchy. Just when I was getting ready to head back on the route, a friendly face named JP Evans came pedaling down the road. I asked him where Jack's country store was, and he said it was still a good two hours down the road. For a split second I freaked out and then just grabbed reality and JPs wheel and headed down the road. We had a fantastic conversation talking about previous times he had done this route and his experience doing the Tour Divide a few years ago. The riding was pretty easy, mostly paved and the miles just ticked by. We hit highway 2 and JP proclaimed that the country store should be right up the road.
Getting to this store was an enormous mental relief. Opening the door we were greeted by the owners and I was visually overwhelmed. Rows and rows of shelving with packaged foods and coolers full of cold drinks. A really nice lady named Donna told JP and I about all of the sandwiches and hot food they had available, and we started placing our orders and grabbing things off of the shelves. My focus was on getting snacks to refill my feedbag. I grabbed some trail mix, small candy bars and a few granola bars. I ordered a BBQ sandwich and a chicken salad sandwich. Grabbed two bags of chips and an ice cold Coca Cola. As we were settling up, Donna was really sweet, taking our pictures and telling us where we were currently placed according to Trackleaders.
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This sign seemed so much bigger.....really. I <3 Cohuttas. |
Stepping outside to eat, we saw another rider named Jon Livengood who was just finishing up his stop and packing up. JP and I both ate one of our sandwiches, some chips and a Coke as we shared stories. I was still hungry but I remember what happened the night before after the stop at Woody's so I packed up the rest of my food and refilled water. With a nice 30 minute stop to get refueled, JP and I were back on the road. We were back onto gravel pretty quickly and winding up a really nice gravel grade which I later learned was Watson Gap. At the top of the climb there was a sign I had seen before, which put me on top of the world. "Welcome to the Cohutta Wilderness" I knew right where I was. I had been looking forward to the sweet, sweet singletrack that lies ahead all day long.
Cresting the gap led into a really fast gravel descent down to the South Fork trail. This lead sinto the northern terminus of the Pinhoti trail system. Visiting this area about a month ago gave me some really good familiarity with the trails in the Cohuttas, and I was having a great time ripping down the mountain. A couple of rollers led up to the Mountain Town overlook and then DOWN Potato Patch dropping into the Bear Creek Trail parking lot. Lots of technical descending on the spur and then great riding on the main trail. The best thing about these trails is how fast they drain after a good soaking. Nice hard trailbed, lots of elevation and great design make these trails so much fun to ride. Before I knew it I was on P2, which is easily my favorite trail in the system, and I was feeling great. When I popped out onto gravel I knew I was just a few miles away from Mulberry Gap.
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Feeling good.....should have hit P3
photo credit: Mulberry Gap |
Cruising down the road making my way to my stop for the day, I saw a silhouette in a black hat at the top of the road. I knew right away it was Brett Davidson, snapping pics. I stopped and chatted with him for a bit, talking about how miserable Stanley was and how awesome it was to get to the Cohuttas. Making my way down the road, I really considered skipping Mulberry Gap and just getting into P3. Next year I will probably make the skip, but for this year it was a nice planned stop to get a good meal, cleaned kit and a most excellent surprise to see my wife when I climbed up the driveway. Pulling in, I was feeling really good and it was nice to sit down and chat with some other racers that were taking a break at the Gap. Scott
Sidener was there taking it easy, JP rolled in a while later and Eddie O'Dea was there hanging out.
After eating and changing clothes, Wendi and I got a few hours of sleep in the cabin. I set my alarm for 2am but somehow missed it and woke up at 3:15. Eek! Got up, got dressed, ate a light breakfast, kissed Wendi goodbye and hit the road. I could have used a LOT more sleep and really did not feel like getting on the bike, but once I got my legs spinning my mood quickly changed. After following the gravel road back to the trails I got onto Pinhoti section #3 (P3), which was pretty climby with some really tight switchbacks. My mindset getting into this section was to take it easy to get good and warmed up, and that worked out really well. I cleared lots of spiderwebs and was surprised by some bats swooping into the beam of light from my helmet light to snatch attracted bugs. Close to the end of P3 I saw a light coming towards me. This was really weird.....5am and someone coming up this section of trail wasn't quite right.
When I caught up to the light I was surprised to see it was JP Evans. I sat and talked to him for a couple of minutes, and it turned out he had gotten turned around somewhere at the bottom of P5 and accidentally backtracked up the mountain. He had decided to head back to Mulberry Gap and pack it in, completely smoked and mentally exhausted. I tried to get him to grab my wheel and come back down the mountain, but it was a no-go, which really bummed me out. Wrapping up P3 and popping out onto highway 2, I had a bit of trouble finding the trail entrance for P4 in the dark. I had to pass by it a few times before catching a reflection off of a turkey foot trail marker. I was getting good and warmed up, and feeling amazed at how well my legs were feeling with 200+ hard miles in them. P4 went quick, rolled down Tatum Lead and into P5 which is a great section of trail. Not at all technical, mostly flowy and quick. One thing I remember about riding this section of trail was that it felt very "bear-y" for some reason. Pretty low lying trailbed, very dark from canopy cover, creek crossings...
just felt like a great place for bears to hang out. I was disappointed that I didn't actually see any bears.
Peeples Lake road led into a really awesome, easy to miss newer section of trail called Dennis Mill (nothing actually says this though). From previous riding I remembered a white trail marker on a tree to the left, and there was a broken Stihl bar cover at the base of the tree. It should also be noted that a ton of trees on this trail have orange spray paint on them, which I can only assume was used to mark out the trail when it was being built. Mostly downhill, machine cut with tons of flow and speed are the trademarks of this section of trail. The sun was starting to come up which made riding this trail even more fun. After about 3.5 hours after leaving Mulberry Gap, the trail dumped out onto a two lane road and I knew the next section was a flat road ride to get over to Dalton.
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Soup.....easy on the stomach
before a big climb |
Although the profile of the 20 mile section looked relatively flat, it had enough curves and rollers to keep it interesting. Little did I know I would be begging for some easy asphalt in the coming hours. I rolled into
Bear Creek Bikes in Dalton around 11am and was a little surprised to see it was so quiet. I was greeted at the door by the race director Derek Kozlowski, who grabbed my bike and threw it up into a workstand to get the drivetrain cleaned up for the final leg of the journey. When we were chatting, he mentioned that I would be done in about 12 hours. Huh? 12 hours? This was the first sign that I had grossly underestimated the difficulty of the last 75 miles ahead of me. While he was working on my bike, I freshened up and walked across the street to Panera Bread. I grabbed a soup & sandwich and sat down inside to enjoy my chicken noodle while deciding to save my sandwiches until after I got back on top of the next mountain.
I walked back over to the shop, refilled bottles, packed up and headed out the door thanking Derek for the service. Just a little more road getting out of Dalton and then right up a very steep climb for a couple of miles on Dug Gap to get to the top of the ridgeline. I found the start of the trail, which is a continuation of the Pinhoti trail but called "The Snake", and found a shady spot to sit down and eat half of the sandwich I had picked up down the hill. Evidently this trail claims its namesake from both the fact that rattlesnakes love to coil up on the rocks to sun, and for the way the trail wraps and winds back and forth across the ridgelines. I heard that the Snake was basically 30ish miles of singletrack covered in rocks that you had to pick your way through, similar to the rocky sections of Jekyll & Hyde at
Oak Mountain in Birmingham, Alabama. Over the past few years I feel like I have gotten much better at technical riding, so I just locked myself into taking it easy through the tough parts, keeping my head up and picking good lines.
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Even a sign welcoming us! |
It was slow going through the rocky ridges, which I expected, but overall pretty enjoyable riding. Most of the sections through very technical lines were very straight which made line selection fairly easy. The hardest part was dropping off of one ridgeline and then climbing back up to another. Every one had more of the less the same characteristics, and after a while got somewhat monotonous and boring. Up, ride some rocks, down.....repeat. I wasn't exactly sure where the Snake ended but at some point around 30 miles in I ran into a clearing just before Armuchee Road and looked to my left to see horse stables. Derek and team had mentioned that one of the only places to get water on course on this final 75 mile section was at a stable, so this had to be it. I rolled over and saw a sign welcoming racers to refill their bottles right next to a water hose. I wasn't completely tapped out on water but I ended up taking a little break to grab a bite to eat and top off my bladder and bottles.
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Cuesheet says "big stone column on the left"
Took me a while to find this guy.... |
After a short section of road riding, I was back off-road and climbing up another ridgeline. Another ridgeline? I thought after the 30ish miles of the Snake it was just an easy, mostly downhill, spin to the state line. Not the case. More ridges, more climbing and darkness setting in. Singletrack or gravel ends, cross a road and then back onto singletrack. At this point in the race there were moments where I honestly just wished it would end, but as the air cooled and the stars came out it once again became really fun riding. Complete darkness other than the lights you are wearing and a humbling sense of solitude in the wilderness. On the last few ridgelines there was a LOT of deadfall, presumably from storms that had passed through in the previous week. Some of them were pretty challenging, requiring you to either pick your 40lb bike up and over tree trunks and then climbing your way through, or hiking you and your bike up the slope off the trailbed to find your way around the base of the tree, and then back down the slope to find the trail again. This definitely killed momentum but it did make it a little more interesting.
If I remember correctly, the last ridgeline after crossing highway 27 was mostly doubletrack with fast and fun rollers. This made the miles tick by pretty quickly. The last few miles before dropping off the ridge turned back into twisty singletrack, where I once again started seeing signs of fatbike tires. Scott had to be really close. I was almost immediately on highway 100 and then a turn was indicated which lead to an old rail trail which was assumed by the Pinhoti system. More turkey track trail markers made it fairly easy to spot. Being a trail converted from an old railbed, it was dead flat and mostly straight. Within just a few minutes of being on this section, I saw a faint blinking red light about a half mile or so ahead. This could only be one person! I clicked down a few gears and got on the pedals. It took a few miles to close the gap, but in no time I had caught up to Scott. We chatted for a few minutes and I asked if he was still going to turn it around at the state line and head back to South Carolina and he confirmed that was his plan.
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Done and done |
After turning up the heat, my legs were feeling really good so I kept pouring fuel on the fire. The rail trail eventually ran out and dumped back onto highway 100. This only lasted a few miles before it intersected highway 20.....the final stretch. I made the right turn and kept it going. This road had mile markers, so it was dead simple to know how much asphalt remained. 3 miles.....a few rollers.....2 miles.....1 mile. Almost there. Keeping the pressure on the pedals. I passed one gas station on the right which by this time was closed. I stood up, dumped my cassette and sprinted across the state line to finish. No more than 100 feet past the "Welcome to Alabama" sign a semi flew past me with maybe only a foot to spare sucking me into the middle of the lane. That would have been a pretty horrible way to finish a 350 mile journey.
I checked over my shoulder for any other oncoming traffic and turned it around to head back to the gas station and call it a night. Andrew was there waiting and we chatted for a while and in just a few minutes Scott came rolling down the road. We reminisced about the past couple of days and talked about his return trip home. The TNGA route had never been yo-yo'd before and Scott was hoping to be the first riding a singlespeed fatbike. What a stud! I was starving, so Andrew and I headed into Rome, GA, to grab a bite to eat before the next rider came across the state line. Once we rolled back into the gas station it wasn't but a few minutes before Peri Garite came rolling through. We all chatted for bit and then piled into the truck and wished Scott a safe ride back east.
It took a few hours to shuttle back to
Mulberry Gap, but it went by pretty quick between chatting with Andrew and catching some sleep. Once back we unloaded, I ate a half a pizza and a beer and made my way down to the cabin to take a quick shower and pass out. By the time I got to bed I think it was close to 5am and falling asleep was easy. I was surprised when I woke up at 8:30am full of energy and ready to go. Soreness in my legs was starting to set in, but I got everything packed up in the truck and drove up the hill to grab some breakfast on the way out of town. The barn was pretty quiet, but as usual the food was awesome and I was starving. Eggs, bacon and two blueberry waffles. Finishing breakfast, I had a really good chat with Sam Harney about his race, coming in second just behind Chad Hungerford, and all of the other bikepacking routes he has raced. Oregon Outback, Stagecoach and more. The coolest thing about this discipline of cycling is how laid back and humble most people are. I said my goodbyes to Mulberry Gap crew and headed home for the 6 hour journey.
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Squeezy therapy |
So that was my race. My first bikepacking race. Two days, sixteen hours and thirty eight minutes. Just a few hours under my three day goal. For about 3 days after the race, my legs were pretty swollen so I spent a lot of time rolling, stretching and sitting in my
Elevated Legs. The only real injury I sustained was some tendonitis in my left lower leg and almost a month later I still have some numbness in my toes and right pinky. Being on the bike that long, you have a whole lot of time to think. I kind of grouped my goals and areas of improvement into three buckets:
- Lighten the bike. I'll be working on getting a lighter setup this fall and ditching unnecessary items. My hope is to get my loaded rig, including food and water, well under 40 lbs.
- Continue with strength work. For a vast majority of the race I could feel where the core and upper body work my coach put into my plan came into play. I felt much more stable climbing and I never really felt any upper body fatigue while making technical descents (and there were a lot of them) until the last day.
- Increase FTP. First and second day I had no problem holding 220-240 watts while under power. The third day was tough to keep the mojo on the pedals and many times I just felt like I was out of fitness. I'll be working hard with Lynda this winter to get ready for some solid early season races in 2016.
Would I recommend this route? Yup. It is hard......really hard. The climbs are tough, and you get very few breaks on the descents as they are pretty technical. There is a good amount of hike-a-bike through some sections like Stanley Gap, and ridge climbing on the Snake. The gravel sections are really well groomed and the singletrack is so, so sweet. Cannot wait to crush this route in 2016.